Countertop Fabrication: Helpful Tips
RODDING
We rod every undermount sink we process. Back in the day, we would put a tuck-point blade on a grinder, cut a 1/4” groove in the back of the slab, and drop in a long chunk of allthread. These is a common, effective and maddeningly slow technique.
Four years ago we started rodding with fish tape—yes, the stuff electricians use to pull wire through conduit.
When we rod with fish tape, we cut two slots in the front and two slots in the back. We cut the fish tape to the correct size, fill the slot with flowing epoxy, insert the strips of fish tape, and wait for it to cure. (If we’re in a hurry, we use express epoxy that cures in minutes instead of hours)
There are many advantages to fish tape:
• It’s much less expensive than allthread – $50 for around 250’ linear.
• Those 250’ rolls make it easy to store.
• You can bend it around the 45° sink bump-outs that are so common these days.
• It can be cut to any length you need.
• It’s twice as fast to rod with fish tape
• We even use it on veins that scare us. We cut the stuff into 4” strips and make Frankenstein stitches across the veins.
This method works. We have had very little breakage since switching to this system.
LIFTING AND MOVING 3cm SLAB
“ARRGH! That island weighs more than 900 lbs!”
In our industry, the most-common injury is likely back-related. We’ve come up with some simple ways to move heavy stone without winding up in the chiropractor’s office.
We started using trailers to take big, finished kitchens to the job site. The use of the trailer keeps the large component close to the ground; who wants to lift a 900-lbs. island off the back of a box van or a pick up?
We get one person on each end of the component with standard lifters and slide the part halfway off the trailer. We then get guys on each side with those hoop-like drywall lifters. Yes, those silly looking things work great!
We then transfer the component to a dolly and roll it into the house. We use the same tools to go up stairs.
DUST-FREE FABRICATION
OSHA, EPA, silicosis, the mess and an unprofessional-looking operation are all good reasons to consider going dust-free. Check the prices on dust-collection equipment, if that doesn’t motivate you, OSHA will.
We went dust-free when we moved to our new shop a year ago. All my guys moaned and whined; I would catch them dragging pieces outside so they could make some dust.
It took awhile to get everyone on the dust-free bus. To do so, we’ve found workarounds on everything.
When we polish marble we use dry paper – we simply run it wet and then do final buff with felt and rouge. It works great!
Grinding back or heavy stock removal can also be done wet. We purchased a large center waterfeed angle grinder; it grinds through stone like a hot knife through butter.
We also modified all of our electric angle grinders. They now have water attachments; we run them off GFIs and use electrical tape to seal the connection. No one has ever been shocked.
There are other benefits you will quickly notice after you go wet:
• Tooling and tools last much longer;
• Things go faster wet;
• The time to decontaminate the shop is cut in half;.
• Everything looks much more professional with out a layer of dust on it; and.
• OSHA is happier
RESINATED SLABS
We (and our customers) really like resinated slabs; it’s the material we purchase for our in-house inventory. The major drawback is that the resin process occasionally darkens the surface of the stone, leaving a finished edge that doesn’t match the color of the surface.
Here’s where a good color-enhancing sealer can make a difference. In our shop, we like Tenax AGER and Aqua Mix Enrich’N’Seal.
These are not your normal enhancers. If you put a little in the bottom of a glass and come back after the solvent evaporates, you’ll find a hard acrylic-type product. This stuff soaks into the stone and stays there.
Most of the time we polish the stone, dry and warm it, apply the sealer, wait a few minutes, wipe it off, and the problem is solved.
On some stones (Succuro and the like), we stop polishing at 800 grit and execute the sealing process. Wait a couple of hours and continue polishing.
WRITING ON STONE
I have seen many methods of tracing templates and writing on stone when producing countertops – there’s been tape and pencil, grease pen and paint markers. We like to use a Pentel Presto™ whiteout (or correction) pen.
It leaves a clean white line that’s easy to see and very consistent. To remove the lines, we use a razor blade; if a shadow remains, we use a little acetone.
This technique has some drawbacks. It can stain certain limestones and other stones, so use care and test the surface before you write with it. You’ll quickly learn which stones to avoid in using this method (and resort to tape and pencil instead).
PROTECTING THE SLAB
Having visited many shops, I’ve noticed at least a dozen different ways to protect the face of the countertop when it’s flipped – carpet, wood, Formica®, foam rubber, etc.
The most effective thing we’ve found is PASCO Shower Pan Liner. It’s non-laminated virgin sheet vinyl, and comes in 100’ –long rolls in widths of 5’ or 6’. (Our tile guys use it, not surprisingly, to build shower pans.)
Simply roll the stuff out on the table, hose it off, and lay your work on it. It allows stone to slide easily, and does a great job protecting the slab from small scratches.
Nothing sticks to the PASCO, and it lasts forever. We make custom shapes, and then roll them up and put them away when we’re done.
If you have any specific questions about methods and techniques go to www.stoneadvice.com, log into the forum, and ask your question. If you have a great idea and would like to share it with others, let me know and I’ll help get the word out. I’ll try to respond to questions and suggestions in a timely manner.
Till next time… Mark Lauzon, stone cutter
Mark Lauzon is a fabricator in Oregon, and the administrator of www.stoneadvice.com, a Website dedicated to slab fabrication.
This article first appeared in the June 2005 print edition of Stone Business. ©2005 Western Business Media Inc.