Patterns for Success, Part II

  There's paper, where Butcher’s Paper or the heavy, rolled brown or rosin construction paper is used. (It’s usually available in either 30”- or 36”- wide rolls.) You can also use black tar paper (a.k.a. roofing felt).
  The paper method is probably the least-expensive technique (when considering material costs), and calls for the least amount of expertise to make an accurate template. The downside to using paper is that, when it gets wet, it can deteriorate or tear.
  I’ve also worried about tar paper leaving marks on very delicate, light-colored marble and limestone when templates are placed on finished slabs prior to cutting. However, I can say from experience that if you're going to use any kind of paper technique, tar paper will hold up the best to water exposure when the templates get back to the shop.
   I’ve found that the best way to place your fabrication instructions on tar paper is to use a yellow china marker, or a gray- or silver-colored Sharpie® pen. You can use a standard black Sharpie or wide felt-tip marker on brown or white paper. Most construction-supply houses carry these types of paper in roll-form.
  Cardboard or full-sheet Masonite is the choice of many cabinet companies. Unlike the various paper methods, the cardboard/Masonite style of templating will allow you to add your overhang amounts right at the job site.
  The best that you can do with a paper template is to create an actual replica of the cabinet structure receiving the stone. This can leave room for error if your saw operator forgets  (or isn't instructed to add for) any edges that have overhang.
  When it comes to types of cardboard, there’s plain paper-based and corrugated plastic (also known as Coroplast ™ or waxed).  I have a very good friend in Colorado who, when he’s not playing golf at his time share in Cancun, insists on using only waxed cardboard for his templates, thereby nullifying the water-xposure concern.
  One note of caution – in warm-weather areas (such as Southern California, Arizona, Texas and Florida) prolonged exposure to the sun will result in your plastic corrugated templates actually growing in size. I’ve seen this phenomenon up close and personal, with templates expanding up to ½” in a span of 8’.
  Finding corrugated plastic takes a little more detective work in locating a dependable source offering the goods at a reasonable price. One option is to check suppliers for the sign and screen-printing markets, where Coroplast and other materials are often offered in bulk.
  PVC strips are not used in every regional market, but I’ve heard a lot of positive feedback from fabricators using this method. Similar in concept to the ever-popular Luan plywood technique, PVC strips can be glued with solvent-type glue that sets up in about two minutes.
  The biggest argument for this technique is that no staples are apparently needed, and very few fabricators’ hands receive slivers when handling the strips  (just making sure you’re paying attention here). The likely downside to using PVC strips is that the finished templates would be prone to wind damage when placed in the back of an open pick-up truck. If you have an enclosed step-van or trailer, this point of concern would be moot.
  Opaque plastic is a little on the pricey side. What’s really cool about this product, however, is that while it’s considered an opaque material, the 1/32” thickness is slim enough to be translucent; when you set it down on a horizontal surface, you can see through it enough to locate cabinet styles, center marks for sinks and other reference points.
  Given that this also is a plastic product, I would advise that you take caution in leaving this out in the sun. Opaque plastic and PVC strip materials are available at industrial plastic supply companies.
  Good ol' luan is probably the method of choice for the majority of fabricators still working with physical templates. The upside to this technique is that any overhang amounts (typically anywhere from 1 ¼” to up to 2” from the face of the cabinet) can be added at the jobsite, ensuring accuracy.
  I’ve even invented a little gauge that automatically sets the overhang dimension for me. This way, I don’t have to measure each time I set a wood strip for a front edge on a template.  
  The added bonus to the Luan-strip technique is that the saw operator only has to trace out the template shape onto the slab, without (in most cases) having to add to the dimension in the shop. And, if you have a very demanding or particular customer that requests a template layout due to the vein directional flow (aren’t these kinds of customers just so much fun?) you can tape Luan templates to the slabs to expedite an approval from your client.
  At least with Luan templates, you can maneuver them around on the slabs, as the slabs sit on your A-frames in the shop prior to cutting. This is considerably easier to manage than with paper or plastic templates.
  Most of the Big-Box home centers carry this product in 4’ x 8’ x 1/8” sheets. Depending on your sources, you can also get this product pre-cut in nominal 3”-wide strips. Here’s a good example on cost – I was recently (as in July) quoted .80 per strip delivered to the shop.
  One thing that I’d like to briefly touch on is the means of getting templates back to your shop in one piece. Most fabricators use the good old pick-up truck to get to the jobsite and haul the templates back. If you’re doing rolled paper templates, this should pose no problem to you. Keep your blank roll stock in the bed (and listen to it roll around back there all day long) and keep your rolled-up templates in the cab with you (listening along to the radio or CD player).
  Luan-strip templates (however) can be a riskier proposition to get back to the shop intact. If you use an open-bed pick-up truck, you can keep a thick (3/4” to 15/16”) 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood in the back; when you lay your templates on the truck bed, you can use the plywood sheet to cover them. You can then put your sinks on top of the cover to hold everything down.
  The next step up for hauling is to purchase an enclosed trailer. I’m very fond of this idea, because for about $2,800 you can buy a brand-new, fully enclosed and lockable trailer that can house your generator, supplies, Luan or plastic sheets, finished templates and any sinks that you have to take to your shop. 
  Another great approach is to buy a step van and have a rolling template vehicle. Some of the nationally known rental companies offer these types of vehicles for resale at a very reasonable cost. Just a new coat of paint, your company name on the side, and you’re in business.
  Both the enclosed trailer and the step van are great ways of protecting your strip-type templates from the elements and provide you with the means of getting your templates and supplies around in a protected and secure manner – and, ultimately, back to the shop.
 
  Kevin M. Padden operates KM Padden Consulting in Phoenix. He will speak on “How to Sell Natural Stone More Effectively” at StonExpo 2004 on Oct. 28 at the Los Angeles Convention Center.

This article first appeared in the August 2004 print edition of Stone Business. ©2004 Western Business Media Inc.