The Final Fit for Chips

Step Five: Pick the right fix. I’m of the opinion that it’s always better to glue a chip back in place (if it’s available). You’ll never get a better match for color and opacity.
That being said, gluing in a chip can be hazardous, especially if the damaged area extends onto the top of the counter. Keep in mind that a chip will almost never seat itself exactly back to its original form, especially with a layer of glue underneath it.
The best plan, as difficult as it may be with a small chip, is to grind off a little of the material on the underside. (Yes, I’ve held a chip in a tweezers to do this.) Repairs aren’t always about the manly heavy lifting of an install.
By removing a little of the underside material you’re ensuring that the chip won’t protrude over the top of the counter and create a spot that needs to be ground down. Having some room to adjust a chip when seating it allows you to match the plane of the chip to the plane of the countertop. This is crucial to a quality repair, as nothing jumps out more than material that’s out-of plane and deflects light, even if the color match is perfect.
My preferred method for gluing in a chip is to place Bonstone adhesive into the void and then work the chip into place, squeezing out as much glue as needed. To get the chip in plane with the top of the counter, I take a razor blade and squeeze down the chip until the razor sets on the existing counter. I then run the blade across both the existing counter and the chip to check it, much as I would a seam.
If the chip sits forward into the edge, it can be relatively easily ground down. The important thing is to make sure the chip does not sit too high.
Once the glue sets up, you can use the razor to remove any excess. I use the metal file to maintain the top of a round-over edge detail if I have any voids that are just glue. Using the edge of the razor to remove excess adhesive can occasionally cause a ‘dip’ in the repair where the razor has dug in; if this is the case, another layer of adhesive or CA needs to be applied and carefully feathered down.
After all the steps, though, one big question remains: Are there times when it’s better to replace than to repair?
This decision should be based on three factors – the availability of stone, the risk involved in the tear-out/reinstall, and the willingness of the client to pay for your time. Large chips on stones that are glassy on top, or chips in very prominent areas, can be troublesome to repair (and make them happy with the work).
If there’s stone left over from the original install and the client is willing to pay for a replacement piece, I wouldn’t have trouble making one. If I have to break and re-glue a seam to do it, it’s probably not going to happen. Another strategy for eliminating a chip is to cut down the overhang on a piece or to add a much-larger edge detail. Both of these have worked for me in the past.
However you deal with a chip, the most important point to remember is this: If you can’t make it go away, find someone who can. Your client will respect the decision.
Jason Nottestad, a 15-year veteran of the stone industry, is National Customer Service Manager for VT Stone Surfaces; he’s now on his third year of “The Installer” columns for Stone Business. He can be reached at JNottestad@vtindustries.com.

This article first appeared in the June 2009 print edition of Stone Business. ©2009 Western Business Media Inc.